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Abruzzi, Italy, natives, brothers Gino Masci, who honed his skills in Belgium and London, and Fernando, who perfected his style in Switzerland and the Belgian Pavilion at the 1967 Montreal World Expo, reunited in New York. In 1981, they opened their first restaurant, Il Mulino New York, in Greenwich Village, which reminded them of their hometown. The palatial third phase of The Forum Shops at Caesars is a fine setting for their Las Vegas restaurant. The dimly lit dining room features a floor-to-ceiling glass-enclosed wine rack displaying 220 mostly Italian labels from Piedmont and Tuscany. For starters, we like the scampi oreganata (breaded shrimp with lemon, garlic and white wine). Among classic pasta choices are spaghettini alla vongole (with baby clams, olive oil, garlic and crushed red pepper or spicy red sauce). Frequent specials are langoustines with white wine, garlic and spinach and the saffron risotto. A winner among the veal preparations is the hearty and rich osso buco. We also like the 12-ounce filet of beef with shallots, sage and wine. Zabaglione with mixed berries is prepared tableside for two. The extensive list of specialty coffees, dessert wines, grappas, Cognacs, brandy, ports, cordials and single malt scotches nicely complements the cuisine.
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