 THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Jack Falstaff, part of the PlumpJack Group, has already seen its share of chefs since it opened a few years ago. With its decidedly lounge-y feel (think low ceilings, a chic green-and-black color scheme and a sleek outdoor patio) and coveted location near the ballpark, it’s a wonder that the restaurant hasn’t seem to hit its stride. Heading up the kitchen now is Jonnatan Leiva, who cut his teeth at such famed restaurants as Union Pacific in New York City, as well as Fifth Floor and the now-shuttered Redwood Park in San Francisco before being snapped up by the PlumpJack Group. Leiva’s menu, which can best be described as modern American, takes many risks---although with mixed results. A standout Caesar salad is topped with a tempura-fried egg, whose runny yolk makes the lemon dressing that much more decadent (and delicious), and oysters on the half shell are briny and fresh. On the flip side, a grass-fed bison tartare was somewhat bland, while an Atlantic pollack is served with overly spiced eggplant (more restraint could have been shown with the cumin) and curried cauliflower. Leiva pulls double duty, creating desserts for the restaurant as well. While house-made cinnamon-sugar donut holes are a sweet, enjoyable way to cap off the evening, they’re not quite enough to elevate the rest of the meal.
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