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Jesse Wong's Asean Bistro Restaurant Review: According to Jesse Wong, the word ASEAN stands for Associated South East Asian Nations, and this tranquil slice of the tropics, with its dark-green plantation shutters and faux palm trees, offers the distinctive flavors of Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Burma, Singapore and Japan as well as the Chinese restaurant classics. The banquet style of cooking makes for attractive plates, decorated with orchids and elaborate rosettes, and such unusual creations as vegetarian partridge, a dish of bean curd wrapped with cabbage, mushroom and tofu. Tea-smoked duck is a delicate affair, gently infused with the flavor of lotus leaf and served with cloudlike steamed buns. Each dish, from the standard to the most elaborate, treats diners to artfully layered flavors and textures. Health-conscious patrons can order a special vegetarian dish made without saturated fats or cholesterol and with a high fiber content, prepared in a choice of styles, including Hunan, kung pao, or with spicy garlic sauce. Sunday brings a Champagne brunch.