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Joel Palmer House Restaurant Restaurant Review: Dayton is a long drive from Portland, but when you arrive at the gracious Victorian mansion (the historic residence of Oregon pioneer Joel Palmer), you will be glad you made the trip. Portland's rainy, forest area is a paradise for mushrooms, which is probably why the Czarnecki family, with four generations of experience in both mushroom hunting and the restaurant business, chose to relocate here from Pennsylvania. Owner/mushroom guru Jack Czarnecki gathers the wild fungi himself and knows just where morels, lobster mushrooms and porcinis hide. His son Chris mans the kitchen, which turns out entrées such as filet mignon served with Szechwan pepper porcini sauce, and grilled sturgeon atop matsutake mushroom duxelle anointed with cayenne aïoli. Czarnecki's wife Heidi conceived the three-mushroom tart. Dishes change frequently as the Czarneckis enjoy experimenting with local ingredients and sharing their creations. For the ultimate experience, your table might order the Mushroom Madness Menu: an eight-course meal featuring mushrooms, even for dessert (think crème brûlée with essence of candy cap mushrooms). A vegetarian version excludes the steak and sturgeon but offers plenty of innovative takes on mushrooms and other vegetables. If this seems too intense, try the three-course tasting menu that still supplies plenty of inventive fungi preparations. The restaurant's wine list is one of the best anywhere for Oregon vintages, and you'll be offered expert advice for your selection.