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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED J's Fresh Seafood Restaurant Review: J's reigns unchallenged as the city's premier seafood spot, and owner Jimmy Gherardi, who gads about on the national chef circuit, knows how to keep things current without alienating all those regulars who've been ordering grilled swordfish for years. Gherardi likes to amuse himself with unusual ingredients like sea beans, wild ramps or game meats, and he might send out a delightful little conceit such as crispy redskin potato shells stuffed with foie gras. His updated and altogether subtler take on oysters Rockefeller is baked with baby spinach instead of grown-up greens, saké instead of Pernod and meltingly creamy Sonoma goat cheese. But he prefers to keep things simple with the lengthy list of seafood specials, from walleye pike to escolar, relying instead on pristine freshness and deft timing with the grill or sauté pan. A cellar as serious as the kitchen draws oenophiles from far and wide. J's is a gracious bi-leveled dining room that actually merits the much over-used description casually elegant. Service is professional though somewhat supercilious.