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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Julia's Kitchen Restaurant Review: Patron saint Julia Child presides over her namesake restaurant in a colorful painting facing diners and an open kitchen. Her seated pose seems relaxed, neither intimidating nor intimidated by expectations for the cuisine of a place housed in COPIA, the self-proclaimed Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts. A salmon-accented room, mixing metal and wood, overlooks a grand functional garden bearing herbs, greens and fruit for the menu; a patio makes a marvelous lunch spot. Talented chef Jeff Mosher offers tributes to Julia that include duck confit cassoulet, its skin tight and crisp; light bouillabaisse, sip-worthy on its own by spoon, but generously dense with mussels and other tastes of the sea; and meaty short ribs bourguignon, intense from a 24-hour marinade. While individual components purr, collectively they roar. Contemporary out-takes include crispy sweetbread popcorn with intensely truffled potatoes, and memorable black squid pappardelle, ruffled like sea kelp, tossed with Monterey calamari “o’s” and harmoniously paired with briny olive crostini. End with a wedge of stacked crêpes layered with dense chocolate mousse, or opt for fromage blanc mousse en gelée with pomegranate consommé infused with rosemary. An intriguing assortment of wines also befits the venue.