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Juniper Restaurant Review: It’s amazing what a facelift can do. In the case of Juniper, formerly The Bistro, what was once a dressy-casual place has become a Power-and-Politics headquarters with elegant appointments and a rather formal menu that declares Fairmont Washington, D.C. follows something called the “Fairmont Lifestyle Cuisine,” inspired by its own in-house spas and presumably starring first-rate ingredients. What seems apparent, however, is that what it offers is not necessarily food to diet by. For one, the breadbasket brims, and not really with all whole-grain choices; also, dishes may be overly salted (a soup of the day, a thin tomato-y broth, is overly seasoned). And the roast chicken breast --- on at least one menu marked with the desired “F” for Fairmont Lifestyle Cuisine --- is equally salty. If you are not counting calories, then celebrate the day with a Maine lobster risotto or grilled salmon with mashed parsnips and potatoes. As for sweets, you might find the childhood charmer, s’mores, perfect.