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Kiku Restaurant Review: Japanese minimalism is hundreds of years older than its western counterpart---which may be why it more easily creates a warm ambience. This large, rectangular room has slate flooring, black wood tables and neutral coloured seats, but one wall is covered with light paneling, and plants on the window sills add colour. It’s noisy, but the upstairs sushi bar is a cosy refuge. It offers classical cuisine with topnotch sushi including such items as scallop and flying fish roe; subtly flavoured maki roll of pickled plum and shiso leaf; and hamachi and yellowfish, worth its high price. The à la carte is long and a few seasonal dishes written in Japanese are willingly translated. Note the aji tataki, a sort of sashimi of horse mackerel chopped with onion, ginger and herbs. As well as the standards, less usual delicacies include dengaku konnyaku, devil's tongue plant with miso paste, and for casseroles, a nimono of poached mooli and chicken. The deep-flavoured house saké is first-rate and there are about 30 sensibly priced wines. Set lunch menus from £16, bento boxes £29; set dinner from £50-£70.