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Kiku Restaurant Review: Japanese minimalism is hundreds of years older than its Western counterpart, which may be why it more easily creates a warm ambience. This large, rectangular room has slate flooring, black wood tables and neutral colored seats, but one wall is covered with light paneling, and plants on the window sills add color. It’s noisy, but the upstairs sushi bar is a cozy refuge. It offers classical cuisine with topnotch sushi including such items as razor clam and flying fish roe; subtly flavored maki roll of mountain burdock pickles; and hamachi and yellowfish, worth its high price. The à la carte is long and a few seasonal dishes written in Japanese are willingly translated. Note the aji tataki, a sort of sashimi of horse mackerel chopped with onion, ginger and herbs. As well as the standards, less usual delicacies include shiokara (sliced squid and guts) and for casseroles, mackerel served with grated white radish. The house saké is first-rate and there are about 30 sensibly priced wines. Set lunch menus from £13.50, bento boxes from £20.