* Click here for rating key
King + Duke Restaurant Review: From Mark Twain's "The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn" comes the inspiration for the name of Ford Fry’s King + Duke, a duo of characters in the novel. The bi-level interior features seating at a long bar, a section of upholstered furniture perfect for after-work gatherings and cocktails, and two levels of dining spaces. Coming over from one of Fry’s other restaurants, chef E.J. Hodgkinson, a California native, serves as executive chef. A 24-foot wood-burning hearth roasts many of the provisions, including meats and produce. Start with a bowl of French onion soup. Thick with caramelized onions, it arrives in a portion large enough to serve as a meal or to share. The open kitchen artfully splits the serving, topping each bowl with its own slice of grilled bread and cheese. Bay of Fundy salmon, cooked medium rare as ordered, tasted a bit earthy initially, but its typical sweetness soon emerged as one ate toward the center. A half Springer Mountain chicken was very smoky in flavor and juicy. White mayonnaise-based barbecue sauce accompanying it takes a page from Alabama’s barbecue traditions. Atlanta pastry chef Chrysta Poulos handles desserts. A huge slice of carrot cake, dark and moist, was decidedly worth the calories. The smart wine list roams the globe to offer many choices by the glass and bottle at good prices. You’ll also find an array of apéritifs, including vermouth, spirits, beers and cordials.