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Kitchen W8 Restaurant Review: With Philip Howard from The Square and Rebecca Mascarenhas from Sonny’s and The Phoenix in charge, this just has to be good. It’s a smart room, with banquettes around the sides, tables laid with posh proper cutlery, glasses and napery and a contented hum that comes from a well-run kitchen and a happy clientele. Mark Kempson, in the kitchen here after The Square, comes up trumps with a deceptively simple style of cooking. Try the silky velouté of Jerusalem artichoke with truffle and mushroom on toast or smoked eel with mackerel and sweet mustard, then move on to plaice with caper, lemon and parsley butter or slow-cooked belly and cheek of pork with a rich cream potato, turnip and pickled cabbage. It’s all very well balanced, with textures and tastes in real harmony. The wine list represents good value with wines starting at £14.95 a bottle and the staff are charming. Set menus at this level of cooking are a terrific value. Monday to Friday lunch 2 courses £17.50, 3 courses £19.50; pre- and post-theatre (Mon.-Fri.) 2 courses £21.50, 3 courses £24.50. 3-course Sunday lunch £25.