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Kitchen W8 Restaurant Review: With Philip Howard from The Square and Rebecca Mascarenhas from Sonny’s and The Phoenix in charge, this just has to be good. It’s a smart room, with banquettes around the sides, tables laid with posh proper cutlery, glasses and napery and a contented hum that comes from a well-run kitchen and a happy clientele. Mark Kempson, in the kitchen here after The Square, comes up trumps with a deceptively simple style of cooking. Try the scallop with fennel, apple, horseradish, oyster and dill, or salad of veal with charred white asparagus, peas and truffle pesto. Then move on to cod with caramelized cauliflower, salsify, Iberico lardo and Parmesan dauphine, or a fricassée of morels with white asparagus, wild garlic and smoked gnocchi. It’s all very well balanced, with textures and tastes in real harmony. The wine list represents good value with wines starting at £14.95 a bottle. Staff are charming. Set menus at this level of cooking are a terrific value. Set lunch £22 for 2 courses and £25 for 3 courses, available Monday through Saturday. Set dinner menu between 6pm-7pm Monday through Saturday £25 for 2 courses and £28 for 3 courses.