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Koffmann's Restaurant Review: Pierre Koffmann, one of London’s most famous chefs, first signaled his return with a pop-up restaurant in Selfridges, then opened in the former Boxwood Café space in The Berkeley. It’s a more relaxed venture than his fêted La Tante Claire. The basement dining room is smart with good lighting, striking food photographs and a dresser with Koffmann’s own cookbooks adding a domestic note. The cooking is more relaxed as well, less haute cuisine and more ‘terroirs’ from the chef’s Gascon roots. Start with fresh crab with celeriac and apple or game in puff pastry with a rich thyme sauce; move on to roasted sea bass with fennel and black olive sauce or go back to the old days with his signature pig’s trotter stuffed with sweetbreads and morels. It’s all extremely good, from the simply cooked but impeccably sourced to more complex dishes. The wine list is well balanced, French, and ranges from £22 a bottle to some very serious wines indeed. 2-course set lunch Monday to Saturday £21.50, 3 courses £25.50; 2-course Sunday lunch £26; 2 course pre- and post-theatre menu £24, 3 courses £28.