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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED KoKo Restaurant Review: What on earth is a place like this doing in a quiet residential neighborhood in southwest St. Louis? Who knows, but we’re thankful it calls the city home. A relatively small room with Hershey's-colored walls is augmented by a lively bar and a menu that grabs ideas from New Orleans, the Caribbean and Latin America. Food ranges from sancocho stew to killer fried chicken. And the intriguing guacamole with coconut milk beckons seductively. The restaurant offers a remarkable brunch, with 12 variations on eggs Benedict, several breakfast pizzas and the old Southern classic, shrimp and grits. Check out the Bloody Mary bar, too.