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La Dorada Restaurant Review: Fresh fish from Spain is mainly what you gain at this urbane Gables seafood spot. Like, for instance, the dorada (sea bream) that, along with sea bass and Dover sole, comes cooked in a solid sea salt crust and is cracked tableside. Other authentic Spanish specialties include a splendidly saffron-scented gazpacho, Andalusian calamari fried in olive oil, the Bilbaina delicacy of baby eels in garlic oil, dazzling paellas, and a number of simply prepared seafood flown in daily from the coasts of Malaga and Galicia. La Dorada's decor is nautical, the European wine list replete with distinctive bottles from Spain, the loyal local Latin clientele lively. Service, too, is first rate. Be forewarned, though: The price for a slice of seafood this nice is twice what youd pay for a slice not as nice.