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La Morra Restaurant Review: An exemplar of the paradox that is rustic elegance, La Morra holds its own among greater Boston's Italophiles for its intense but astute repertoire. The two-story Northern Italian eatery sits on the awkward edge of Brookline Village. Downstairs in the bar area, Venetian cicchetti reign --- salt cod seasoned with garlic and lemon is a longtime favorite; pair it with a glass of Prosecco. Upstairs, handmade pastas are the focus, alongside secondi piatti that range from hearty wood-grilled steaks to fish and game --- all of which tend toward an earthy richness that trumps seasonal variation. What needn’t be so rich is you: hovering in the low to mid-20s, entrée prices are surprisingly nice; the fact that primi piatti come in half-portions only sweetens the pot, as does the option of a nightly four-course $35 prezzo fisso (a $15 wine pairing is optional). The velvety honey lavender panna cotta is worth every calorie.