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Le Central Restaurant Review: This simple but authentic French country restaurant has a daily changing menu that's a bargain, especially compared to the airfare to Paris. The bouillabaisse, lapin (rabbit), poitrine de poulet (stuffed chicken breast) and canard (grilled duck) are all dependable, but Le Central is best known for its seemingly endless bowls of steamed mussels, of which there are ten different preparations, all priced at $11.95 during both lunch and dinner service; unlimited house-made pommes frites are included in the price tag. The extensive wine list has only French wines --- many from small, lesser-known vineyards --- at equally good prices. Weekend brunch yields quiche Lorraine, croque monsieur, cinnamon-battered brioche french toast and a salmon, white fish and mussel crêpe, not to mention several salads and those bottomless bowls of mussels. If there's one deterrent, it's the service, which often comes with too much pretense.