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Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar Restaurant Review: At an address near The Denver Center for the Performing Arts, owner Robert Thompson and his talented chef John Broening have unleashed a flirtatious restaurant that's all about ballyhooing French classics. To wit: butter-soaked escargots; steak au poivre; foie gras; bronzed pan-roasted chicken; house-made charcuterie; steak tartare crowned with a yolk-spilling egg; and a plate of ravioli pillowed with goat cheese pooled in a brown butter sauce. Broening’s food is as comforting as it is striking, succeeding on both fronts. A seafood bar holds seasonal selections such as East Coast and West Coast oysters and octopus with tapenade. The stylishly staged dining room and bar, bedecked with black etchings of French pigs, a racy red color scheme, dark woods, and plush furnishings in which to relax with a cocktail, glass of wine or craft beer --- including sours --- will persuade even the most la-di-da Francophile to admit that it doesn’t get any more Gallic than this.