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Le Relais Bernard Loiseau Restaurant Review: Bernard Loiseau has been in this splendid old mansion for more than twenty years now, and during this time, he's enthusiastically taken on bankers and the media in his efforts to make his restaurant the very best it can be. And by golly, he's succeeded! A vast salon built around an impressive fireplace provides a lovely setting for enjoying a drink and perusing the menu before moving into one of the dining rooms overlooking the landscaped garden. First-timers will naturally (and rightly) be drawn to Loiseau's best-known dishes. Loiseau has no equal when it comes to transforming the most humble ingredients into foodstuffs fit for royalty. His cuisine is one of the most modern ones in existence: all his sauces are made from reductions of vegetables, wines and other noble ingredients, and are completely fat-free, but don't worry, it will be feast-day for your tastebuds. Let Hubert Couilloud (who, like fine wines, only gets better with age) or Meilleur Sommelier de France, Lyonel Leconte. guide you through the wine list, replete with splendid Burgundies.