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Lee Restaurant Review: Chef Susur Lee created the recipes, and talented chef de cuisine Jason Carter, who has worked with him for eight years, executes them deftly and swiftly in this fast-paced, tapas-style restaurant. Wood floors, exposed beam ceiling, brick walls covered with semi-transparent silk screens and Eames-style molded plywood chairs contribute to the hip atmosphere, as does the large eat-at bar with its Lucite counters. The noise level is high inside, while the quieter outdoor patio hugs the sidewalk close to passing traffic. Dishes are meant to be shared and arrive in random order. Think a supper with attitude rather than a dining experience. Tomatillo and jalapeño guacamole, a mix of watermelon radish, jícama and other vegetables, might come concurrently with the spicy, lightly tempura-battered tofu with honey and soy glaze. All dishes are packed with intense, bold and pure flavors. The menu changes seasonally and according to demand. Expect about a hundred selections that cover all tastes and budgets on the wine list.