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The Left Bank Restaurant Restaurant Review: Whenever we step into The Left Bank, we feel as though we've time-traveled to old-world France. Deep banquettes, bentwood chairs and tables set with crisp napery and sparkling glasses are among the detailed touches. Executive chef-owner Jean-Michel Chelain, a native of Grenoble, in the French Alps, believes in procuring the highest quality ingredients, and he treats them with respect. He brings in super-fresh seafood, and everything from bread to dessert is made on the premises. If you’re inclined to splurge on caviar or escargots, this is the place --- and that’s just for starters. Bouillabaisse features lobster, shrimp, scallops and mussels, all steeped in a lobster broth with just enough fennel to give it a pleasing anise flavor. But the seafood vol-au-vent in saffron cream is every bit its equal, as is the veal porterhouse topped with seared foie gras. Starring on the dessert list, the chocolate soufflé with vanilla sauce must be ordered for a minimum of four persons, but we find it's worth enlisting your friends. Predictably, The Left Bank's extensive wine cellar is stocked overwhelmingly with French wines, including a startling number of vintages from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. You’ll pay a pretty penny for most bottles, but you won’t regret a sip.