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The Left Bank Restaurant Restaurant Review: Whenever we step into The Left Bank, we feel as if we have time-traveled to old-world France. Deep banquettes, bentwood chairs and tables set with crisp napery and sparkling glasses are among the detailed touches. Executive chef-owner Jean-Michel Chelain, a native of Grenoble, in the French Alps, believes in procuring the highest quality ingredients---and he treats them with respect. He brings in super-fresh seafood, and everything from bread to dessert is made on the premises. That means the smoked salmon is peach wood-smoked in-house. The bouillabaisse features the freshest lobster, shrimp, scallops and mussels, all steeped in a lobster broth with just enough fennel to give it a pleasing anise flavor. Colorado elk chops and rack of lamb are properly cooked to order and nicely sauced. And the steak au poivre blanc is rolled in crushed white peppercorns and bathed in a sauce of brown stock, cream and Cognac. Starring on the dessert list, the chocolate soufflé with vanilla sauce must be ordered for a minimum of four persons, but we find it's worth enlisting your friends. Predictably, The Left Bank's extensive wine cellar is stocked overwhelmingly with French wines. Some 20 are available by the glass, including seven or eight each of whites and reds, plus Champagne and a few late-harvest dessert wines.