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Les Zygomates Restaurant Review: Les Zygomates could easily get by on its looks alone; the zinc bar, red banquettes and vintage posters are just that stylish. But as long as Ian Just is the chef-owner, it won't be lacking for substance either. Trained in Paris at the original Zygomates and with the Gallic palate to prove it, Just exhibits notable restraint in his approach to bistro fare. Pâtés are made daily, steak frites is the real thing, the raw bar is a standout, and even the simplest of salads is treated with care --- in winter, escarole studded with lardons and blue cheese and wilted in a warm bacon vinaigrette is nearly a meal in itself; in summer, the tang of an herb vinaigrette contrasts with the beet salad with goat cheese and walnuts. We like the rich beef short ribs, but we always save room for the apple tart with mascarpone ice cream. The wine selection ranges from modest table wines to a treasure trove of Grands Crus. And that isn’t all: nightly live jazz helps keep the urbane spirit of the place alive until the wee hours.