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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED L'Etoile Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED At 20-years-old, L'Etoile now wears the mantle of the city's longest-lived French restaurant---and has hired a chef from downtown’s dazzling Le Rêve. Sightings of menu modifications have been made, but we would not be unhappy to see certain staples retained as well---foie gras a l’Armagnac with apple chutney and the “crown” of fresh Texas blue crab with salmon gravlax, and wild black sea bass over a galette of celery root with a wild mushroom ragoût, for example. Roasted duck breast over a potato salardaise with raspberry gastrique would not be spurned, either, nor would the domestic rack of lamb enlivened with épices du Maroc. The wine list continues to improve, the décor has been updated---some---and a faithful clientele continues to come, despite the potential loss of attention occasioned by the opening of a casual grill on I-10 west of town by owners-chef Thierry Burkle and front-of-the-house man Armand Obadia. Any slights, imagined or real, can easily be assuaged by dessert, however; the terrine of bittersweet and white chocolate with crème anglaise and the apple and rhubarb crumble with blueberry coulis can put anything to right---not that they’ll have to.