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L'Express Restaurant Review: If you're looking for the true Parisian bistro experience in Montréal, look no further than L’Express. A city institution, L’Express used to be the under-the-radar destination of choice for discerning but frugal chefs just off work. There was even a secret, more interesting --- and more affordable --- wine list that customers in-the-know would request. But now, though the late-night hours remain the same, the wine list is available to all, and the fickle foodie crowd has moved on to hip cocktail bars and small plates start-ups. All the better for the rest of us as the quality of the local, seasonal menu of duck confit salad and textbook steak frites, and the professional service haven’t slipped an inch. Walk along the marble floor, past the welcoming bar, to a table soon to be topped with a jar of gherkins, a pot of Dijon mustard and fresh baguette, and then soak up the European air of pretension-free refinement along with a carafe of anything French.