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L'Hostaria Restaurant Review: If you're the kind of knowledgeable foodie who is much more impressed with a perfectly balanced stock made from scratch than a Power Tower of presentation excess, you will truly appreciate the cuisine of Tiziano Gortan at this highly individual Aspen restaurant. Gortan is a protégé of Gualtiero Marchesi of the venerable L'Albereta in Lombardy, and the young chef's refined vision guided the creation of every aspect of this elegantly simple, unpretentiously beautiful restaurant. The amusing paintings of his friend, Florentine artist Giacomo Piussi, decorate the walls, a glass wine cellar and graceful moderne furniture created by his father and his uncle establish a serenely Armani-like elegance in the bar and dining rooms. Here you will find the only carpaccio bar in town offering a variety of meat and seafood carpaccio. The tuna carpaccio with crab and avocado is especially good. There is also a fine selection of wines by the glass with the emphasis on Italian selections and a few fine picks in the Australian Shiraz department. Dinner is a relaxed and civilized affair. We recommend the L'Hostaria risotto with Parmigiano and veal sauce as a first course. The main courses follow his philosophy of simple food, not too much sauce, not too many tastes, good combinations. Try the slow-braised stewed rabbit with mushrooms and polenta served in a terra cotta dish, the osso buco with saffron risotto, or the coteletto de vitello. For dessert, the homemade ice cream in basic chocolate, strawberry and vanilla and the fruit sorbets are Gortan's typically simple, but perfect finishing touch.