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L'Hostaria Restaurant Review: If you're the kind of knowledgeable foodie who's more impressed with a perfectly balanced stock made from scratch than a power tower of presentation excess, you will appreciate the cuisine of Tiziano Gortan at this highly individual Aspen restaurant. A protégé of Gualtiero Marchesi of the venerable L'Albereta in Lombardy, Gortan oversees every aspect of this elegantly simple Italian establishment. Eclectic artworks by friends adorn the walls; graceful modern furniture created by his father and uncle establish a sleek serenity in the bar and dining rooms. Here you will find the only carpaccio bar in town, offering a variety of raw or lightly cured meats and seafood, from beef tartare to coffee-marinated salmon. We recommend the pea-ricotta ravioli in lemon brown butter, topped with bits of fried prosciutto (though all the pastas are house-made). Main courses follow Gortan’s philosophy of simple food --- not too much sauce, not too many tastes, good combinations. Try the osso buco with saffron risotto or the cotoletta alla Milanese. As for dessert, classics like tiramisu, semifreddo and panna cotta make for the perfect finishing touch. Dinner is a relaxed and civilized affair, complete with wines from a serious cellar that, while wide-ranging, abounds in the three Bs (Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello).