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Lidia's Kansas City Restaurant Review: New York City restaurateur, cookbook author and PBS cooking show star Lidia Bastianich gambled that Midwesterners would take to her regional Italian fare. Her risk paid off. The David Rockwell-designed space in a rehabilitated, century-old warehouse anchors the Freight House district, just behind Union Station. When the weather is nice, diners can sit on the patio and watch the trains pulling in and out of the station. During the winter, a massive fireplace warms the bar. The pasta sampler is a consistent favorite, an all-you-can-eat trio that changes daily. Bastianich taught Kansas Citians to appreciate frico, grated cheese sprinkled on a hot pan, stuffed with various fillings and griddled until the cheese melts and crisps. The zuppa di pesce, lamb shanks and duck gnocchi are among the other house favorites. A noteworthy deal: the Tuscan Grill on Monday nights, a four-course meal for $35 that includes wine, dessert and grappa. Check out the market brunch on Saturday and Sunday, a three-course feast that includes buffet-style salads, a choice of entrée and dessert---all for $22. Mama Mia, bella gusto!