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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Lindsay House Restaurant Review: Richard Corrigan is an original and Lindsay House is unlike any other restaurant: an antidote to big, brash eateries with unknown chefs. You ring a bell to enter the eighteenth-century Soho townhouse with bare floorboards, original fireplaces and a plain, cream-coloured elegance. Corrigan's rural Irish upbringing informs his cooking. Tastes are earthy and robust, from seared scallops which come with pickled beetroot and peppered pork belly for starters through dishes like crusty cod with black olives, and pancetta with chickpea and harissa or a rich, hearty daube of venison with chestnut gnocchi and red cabbage. Menus faithfully follow the seasons and though a few of his dishes err on the wild side, the best are simply topnotch. Desserts are as flavourful: prunes soaked in Earl Grey tea with puff pastry, frangipane and Armagnac ice cream; chocolate fondant. The intimate and appreciative, but not reverential, atmosphere is encouraged by delightful and unaffected service. The list of wines is long, inspiringly grouped and lovingly annotated---a joy, like so much of the food. 3-course à la carte lunch and dinner £59; 3-course pre-theatre dinner £27. Tasting and Garden (vegetarian) menu £70; with wines £112.