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Locanda Locatelli Restaurant Review: Giorgio Locatelli is a phenomenally good chef who has also made this former hotel dining room (it's attached, loosely, to the Hyatt Regency London---The Churchill) into a major destination restaurant. The décor is beautifully intimate, dimly lit with comfortable, well-placed tables and glass panels divvying up the room. The cooking uses well-sourced ingredients and delivers dishes that are classically based, but with a Locatelli contemporary twist. Antipasti of pork sausage, Savoy cabbage and saffron risotto or a simple Belgian endive salad with blue cheese and pear (salads are particularly good and varied); pastas of homemade veal ravioli with gremolata or spaghetti with stewed octopus; and a roast monkfish with walnut and caper sauce or a slowly cooked lamb with polenta and peppers remind us how superior Italian cooking is in London. Desserts live up to the rest of the menu. The all-Italian wine list is a treat, with a generous number of wines by the glass and rare vintages that you’d be astonished to find outside Italy. Service is terrific and, Locatelli being a family man, all ages are welcome.