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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Locke-Ober Restaurant Review: It doesn’t get more old-school Brahmin than this. Steeped in history, Locke-Ober is dining at its stateliest. Generations have basked in the glow of mahogany, crystal and silver while enjoying caviar, East Coast oysters and other raw bar favorites, lobster stew (JFK's favorite), broiled Boston scrod and a juicy bone-in rib-eye. Dishes with contemporary pizzazz --- ahi ceviche with chilled somen noodles, lobster Savannah --- complement signature favorites. Round out the experience with a glass of Sommerberg Riesling paired with a dessert classic like baked Alaska. We wish the kitchen always lived up to the pomp and circumstance; when it doesn’t, the disappointment is exacerbated by the exorbitant price tag. When it does, however, a meal here is truly a special occasion, especially since the service remains as kid-glove as could be.