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LoRusso's Cucina Restaurant Review: The indecisive have it easy here. Not only are house specialties like cioppino and tenderloin modiga highlighted with icons, chef-owner Rich LoRusso pegs his favorites and adds some commentary on the eclectic wine list as well. Ever the quintessential restaurateur, LoRusso is always visible in the community and in the kitchen, busily turning out traditional St. Louis Italian-American fare like toasted ravioli, chicken spedini and veal Parmesan. Some off-the-beaten-path pastas are worth investigating, and props to LoRusso for offering a tasty vegetarian eggplant lasagna.