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Luce Ristorante Enoteca Restaurant Review: Luce’s prior tagline, “a contemporary twist on Italian,” one that the upscale setting appeared designed to reinforce, has been abandoned for an emphasis on “authentic” cuisine --- often equally challenging to achieve. Sampling a simple but satisfying funghi or margherita pizza suggests the shift was a good one; insalata di mare (add lemon) is satisfactorily stocked with seafood, and fried rice balls (arancini) with pulled pork and duck ragù are ideal as a non-complicated starter. Less-fussy chicken dishes such as the sautéed breast with zucchini and cannellini beans now stand out. Osso buco puts in an almost-obligatory appearance with fregola and toasted garlic vegetables. And luxurious Akaushi beef has been added to the menu in steak form. We appreciate the availability of wines by the quartino, and find the Italian wine selection to be one of the best in town. Also vying for best-of honors is the happy hour from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday, wherein appetizers are substantially discounted. In good weather, try well-priced lunch offerings such as the lobster-stuffed ravioli on the pleasant patio.