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Luce Ristorante Enoteca Restaurant Review: Luce’s prior tagline, “a contemporary twist on Italian,” one that the upscale setting appeared designed to reinforce, seems to have been abandoned for an emphasis on “authentic” cuisine --- often equally challenging. Sampling a simple but satisfying funghi pizza suggests the shift was a good one; seafood salad (add lemon) is full of ocean swimmers, and fried rice balls (arancini) are ideal as a non-complicated starter. Less-fussy chicken dishes such as the lusty scarpariello with sausage and peppers now stand out. Lamb chops “scottadito” still pique mostly by virtue of their parsley and garlic brining and the side of Gorgonzola gnocchi. We appreciate the availability of wines by the quartino, and find the Italian wine selection to be one of the best in town. Also vying for best-of honors is the happy hour from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday, wherein all appetizers are discounted 50 percent. In good weather, try well-priced lunch offerings such as the ravioli di zucca on the pleasant patio.