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Lucia Restaurant Review: If the case is to be made that downtown Albuquerque is finally entering the twenty-first century, Lucia serves as Exhibit A. As the signature dining room of Hotel Andaluz --- a historic property renovated to update classic Southwestern style in sleek fashion --- Lucia bathes in the aura of its boutique setting. But the exhibition kitchen reflects a whole other level of worldliness with a repertoire that’s organically oriented, vegetarian friendly, and globally inspired --- and usually delivers on its promise. The best dishes involve an unusual sort of Mediterranean fusion: fried calamari and artichokes tossed with peppadew peppers and accompanied by Merlot-infused marinara as well as basil aïoli, for instance, or hazelnut-crusted sea bass brightened with apricot-green chile chutney --- or pizza topped with duck confit, bacon, arugula pesto and figs to boot. Well-made nightcaps on the terrace round out a lovely evening. Meanwhile, the Sunday brunch buffet is no less playful for being utterly elegant, from the house-baked breads to mini-breakfast burritos in green chile.