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John Besh brings a little Crescent City to Alamo town --- we could use more. • Buy John Besh's cookbook Besh Big Easy: 101 Home-Cooked New Orleans Recipes
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Luke, San Antonio, TX

Luke Restaurant Review

: Lüke is New Orleans chef John Besh’s first foray outside of Louisiana, and its brasserie theme also attempts to conjure a little Hill Country cred with Bandera quail and Broken Arrow venison. There has always been a problem with the dining space inside a cookie-cutter hotel. But current local chef John Russ, a Besh alum, may at least be resolving initial kitchen issues as dishes that didn’t work, the suckling pig among them, have been removed. (We can go for more sauerkraut on the otherwise bountiful choucroute Maison, but the house-made charcuterie platter should remain just as it is.) Shrimp with andouille and grits has always passed muster. We now look forward to trying pumpkin agnolotti with sweetbreads. As for happy hour’s inexpensive Gulf oysters, slurp them down with a Sazerac or a beer from the notable list. Weekend brunch with live jazz features breakfast beignets and buttermilk biscuits decorated with sausage, gravy and eggs.

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