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N’Awlins chef John Besh brings a little Crescent City to town --- more, please.
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Dining room at Luke, San Antonio, TX

Luke Restaurant Review

: Lüke is New Orleans chef John Besh’s first foray outside of Louisiana, and San Antonio welcomes the implied honor --- especially since the brasserie-themed establishment attempts to conjure a little German, Hill Country culture as well. But so far, the theme seems to reside in names such as the (quite good) Alsatian onion tart. Part of the problem is the dining space inside a cookie-cutter hotel; it takes precious little advantage of its prime River Walk setting. But there are issues with the kitchen as well; the charcuterie platters are exceptional, and we appreciate seeing plates such as rabbit fricassée and fried soft shell crabs, but complex dishes don’t always deliver on all counts. Tuesday’s roast suckling pig, for example, sometimes starts out boldly --- and then gets almost too aggressive. Management seems to have recognized all this, and changes have been announced. Happy hour’s inexpensive oysters redeem much. Slurp them down with a Sazerac, a French 75 or a beer from the notable list.

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