 Lukshon Restaurant Review: After running many a kitchen including Michael’s, chef Sang Yoon bought and reimagined Santa Monica’s Father’s Office, a burger and craft beer bar that is notorious for its no-substitutions policy. Yoon launched this venture, an upscale contemporary Asian restaurant, right next door to the Culver City branch of F.O. The room is both simple and elegant---a glass entrance leads into a pearl-white-colored bar with two communal tables and an open kitchen, and a minimalist, compact dining room to the left and an adjoining patio. Kurobuta pork ribs are tender, but the chicory coffee sauce is a touch over-reduced; the pastry of the lamb sausage roti canai (a kind of Indian style flatbread) is flaky, though slightly undercooked at the center, with fiery nuggets of Moroccan spiced lamb sprinkled on top. For entrées, the crisped skin of the whole steamed fish houses soft, succulent flesh, and the chiang mai curry noodles are perfect for absorbing the remaining juices from the carcass. Cocktails largely succeed with Asian-infused ingredients, like the Fujian cure made with Scotch, lemon, galangal and lapsang souchong black tea. The wine list is succinct, dominated by the dry whites of Alsace, Spain, Austria, Italy and Germany.
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