THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED M. Wells Dinette

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED M. Wells Dinette Restaurant Review:

M. Wells, once a diner in Queens’ Long Island City, broke foodies’ hearts when it shut down in 2011. But chef Hugue Dufour, who logged time at Montreal’s Au Pied de Cochon, quietly opened M. Wells Dinette inside MoMa’s PS1 in Long Island City in autumn 2012. Back are Dufour’s whimsical takes on hearty, sometimes challenging fare: the bone marrow and escargots, set in a hollowed-out cow leg bone, is a good starter (though small enough that you’ll be aching for more), and the rabbit terrine is just plain satisfying. Entrées, written on a chalkboard in this classroom-like setting (an homage to the building’s past incarnation as an elementary school), include half a smoked chicken and a nearly revelatory beef cheek stroganoff --- ultra-tender pieces of beef cheek dotted around thick bucatini noodles. End the meal with a slice of maple pie and a shot of maple whiskey. Wine, drawn from vino hot-spots world-wide, is offered by the glass, and there’s a short list of craft beer by the bottle.