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29-30 Clerkenwell Green Send to Phone
020-7251 6606
Underground: Farringdon

Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Maison Novelli Restaurant Review

: Jean-Christophe Novelli is behind the stove and actually cooking in his restaurant. He’s back from his wanderings around the world, and we are assured that he intends to stay there. This is very good news for diners in the Clerkenwell area. Jean-Christophe is not only the Adonis of the restaurant world, he’s also a very good cook, and his restaurant has rather suffered in his absence. His cooking seems to have grown up in his travels. There are less silly pretentions, less confusion on the plate and less of the ubiquitous truffle oil than there has been previously. Instead, he is using good ingredients and letting them speak for themselves, with one or two flights of fancy which seem to hang together better than they did of late. Ham hock is served with a marinated leek and a gribiche sauce; a haricot blanc velouté is garnished with grilled scallops; turbot is poached in anise-flavoured broth and served with hollandaise. Customers are looking happy and well fed.


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