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Marcello’s Chophouse Restaurant Review: From the prominent, stone-walled bank of engraved wine lockers to the high-backed, creamy leather banquettes to the celebratory clink of stemware, Marcello’s quintessential steakhouse setting sends a crystal-clear message: In a town that teems with taquerias, this is a fine-dining oasis. The clientele is posh, the service polished---and the food every bit as good as that of national players like Morton’s and Ruth’s Chris. An exception to the rule of huge portions, a single morsel of pan-seared foie gras is worth every penny-per-millimeter, positively melting into the pear compote beneath it---but we eschew most of the listed appetizers to start with sides like the cornbread-crusted creamed corn and three-cheese potatoes au gratin studded with bacon. And while the steaks are impressive, we’re just as often swayed by chops of other sorts, especially lamb and pork. The signature dessert---a caramelized version of the classic banana split---is a must no matter how much your own sides are splitting. As for the wine list, its strong new-world focus may come as a slight disappointment to Europhiles, but even they’ll have to admit that it’s well-matched to the lusty, meaty cuisine.