| The Matador is like Tex-Mex wearing nice lipstick. The menu, stocked with reliable Mexican standards, takes many dishes a step further with deluxe ingredients and peppery spice---from smoky to scorching. We enjoy a plate of nachos here or a bowl of chunky chili as much as we like bacon-wrapped jalapeños filled with goat cheese. Among entrées we skip most seafood (except for a delightful mahi mahi or habanero prawns) and head straight for the carne: carne asada is first-rate, moist and paired with sautéed corn and leeks as well as garlic mashers. Carnitas, a dish of pork chunks served in a sauce hinting of cinnamon and orange, are a delight. Baby-back ribs also stand out. When we save room for dessert, we relish the molten chocolate cake, which has a delightful texture and is supported admirably with vanilla bean ice cream and a rum-caramel sauce. The dark bar area is a welcome place for a quick one after work (the tequila selection is tops) or a view of the game. Otherwise, the dark booths and warm colors connote a more serious evening---especially since The Matador is for diners 21 and over. Now that’s serious Mexican food. |
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