Maude’s Liquor Bar Restaurant Review: Brendan Sodikoff (Gilt Bar) does it again with this moody, bricked-out haunt featuring Jeff Pikus (Alinea) in the kitchen. Country and modernized brasserie fare dominate the menu, which is augmented by spendy seafood platters from the raw bar and updated “almost French” offerings like white wine steamed mussels with herbs. Get that along with the luxurious, piment d'Espelette-accented steak tartare or the caramelized French onion fondue. Tender beef short rib bourguignon begs to be teamed with foie gras; white fish in brown butter is moist, flaky and satisfying. Order a few smashes --- like the floral Smokey Violet --- to go with.
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