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McLoone’s Pier House Restaurant Review: Sip on a glass of chilled white wine on the deck overlooking the breakers; pair it with an entrée of lobster-encrusted sea bass, a gilding of the lily, created by crowning the fish with horseradish-infused lobster meat and topping it with a Champagne cream sauce. It’s served with risotto and sautéed spinach. Or go simple; the lobster-shrimp bisque is the signature dish and not to be missed. There are many options on the vast menu and some landlubber dishes are not an afterthought, i.e., the cowboy steak, a French-cut rib-eye fire-grilled and served with roasted potato wedges and grilled asparagus. The brief wine list nicely complements the food; cocktails and beers are abundant. The Pier House Cosmo puts summer in a glass with a combination of Absolut Citron, Grand Marnier, Rose’s lime juice, a splash of cranberry juice and a lime wheel. Service is informal and efficient.