 Chef and co-owner Carlos Gaytan is doing something different here, and it---with good reason---turns heads. French-trained and Mexico-born, he’s combining the two cooking styles with eye-popping results. The setting is simple and unadorned, but the food is anything but. If you can, begin with the innovative sopes trio of chimichurri-soused escargots, shrimp Provençal with creamy avocado mousse and xico mole-accented plantains and coconut. Some entrées follow the straight and narrow; we find the duo of chipotle-tamarind-glazed duck confit and breast with chard and a corn and cranberry tamal more interesting. Treat that sweet tooth to something unusual, perhaps avocado pastry cream with strawberry compote in crisp phyllo.
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