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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Milan Restaurant Review: From the get-go, Milan had its naysayers. The place was too self-consciously trendy, too pretentious, too…well, too un-Baltimore. There was the “food meets fashion” concept, the frou-frou “martinis” named after fashion designers, the “sushi Italiano,” the swanky nightclub vibe that disconcerted conservative Little Italy residents. (The nightclub part of the restaurant has since closed.) And, let’s not forget, the menu priced not only in dollars but also in euros. However, if one stayed to dine, there was much to praise. The sleek white dining spaces may look chilly at first, but the service is warm if often inexperienced, and even non-supermodels will be treated well. The food is sexy and luxurious: risotto with seared scallops and wild mushrooms, filet mignon with Gorgonzola butter, rack of lamb with Chianti demi-glace, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese with white truffle essence. More casual dining is available, but even if you’re there for the flatbread pizzas, dress up nicely. You won’t want to be outclassed by the fashion-forward food.