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Modesto Restaurant Review: With a couple-dozen tapas dishes priced under $10, Modesto affordably captures the essence of a Spanish café. Customers can while away hours nibbling on the likes of steamed mussels in tomato-Cognac sauce, smoked trout with crispy chickpeas in quince vinaigrette, fried cauliflower in truffle oil or crispy pork belly with sherried onions and fig glaze. The chef’s use of authentic ingredients --- Serrano ham, manchego cheese, Arbequina olive oil --- and preparation styles from across Spain have established its reputation as a food-lovers’ destination. Servers understand the menu, and they’ve mastered the pace of cyclical ordering and serving to ensure tapas-style dining is fun. If you prefer an entrée, the paella with chicken, chorizo and seafood is a feast. The all-Spanish wine list offers interesting possibilities, as do the creatively conceived cocktails. An all-night happy hour makes Tuesday and Thursday popular nights at the bar.