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Morton's The Steakhouse Restaurant Review: It has always been about tradition at Morton's. The main menu is still basically as meat- and starch-centered as it was when the steakhouse chain launched in 1978, down to the signature double porterhouse and weekend prime rib special, though those have been joined by cuts like a bone-in filet with béarnaise sauce. Steaks are wet-aged, a process generally producing steaks not as boldly beefy as dry-aging, but they're Prime grade and skillful high-heat searing makes them among the best around. An early evening and late-night bar menu is available, too, aimed at attracting a younger and more budget-conscious grazing/lounging crowd: iceberg wedge bites, a crab cake BLT sandwich --- with a smoked salmon pizza as mod as things get. For dessert, soufflés (chocolate, raspberry, Grand Marnier or lemon) still rule. The wine selection, ranging from new-world Sauvignon Blancs to old-world Burgundies, is as princely as expected. Service is tops as well.