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Mosca's Restaurant Review: Mosca’s has been serving its distinctive take on Italian cuisine in the same off-the-beaten-path spot for seven decades. It inhabits a tiny, white clapboard roadhouse that could be mistaken for a large tool shed were it not for the sign outside. Huge shrimp steeped in butter, olive oil, rosemary and bay leaf become the ultimate version of barbecued shrimp. Hard-shell crabs glory in a cool marinade of onions and other aromatics. Freshly made, sweet Italian sausages are oven-roasted with potatoes that absorb the meat's juices. Oysters are fine company for a gratin of garlicky breadcrumbs studded with artichoke bits and rosemary. Baked chicken à la grande, a specialty, is a study in lusty flavor, while house-made spaghetti is a good vehicle for a dousing of olive oil and garlic. Cheesecake and “Pineapple Fluff” constitute the dessert menu. Service is as perfunctory as the wine list, which contains a handful of familiar Italian wines, each served in small juice glasses. And come prepared: cash only.