 Nana's Restaurant Review: After 20 years in business, Nana’s has become an iconic restaurant in an area that has attracted more than its share of top culinary talent. Owner-chef Scott Howell’s unerring instinct for combining Mediterranean flavors with those of his native North Carolina proves itself time and time again, in dishes such as potato gnocchi in a guinea hen "cacciatora"; pan-roasted coastal red snapper over Brinkley Farm butterbeans and braised baby artichokes, finished in a lobster-tarragon cream; cast-iron-roasted duck breast over venere black rice with roasted baby root vegetables with a mango-balsamic sauce; or grilled venison loin with potato and shiitake mushroom gratin, wilted greens and roasted red onions paired with a caramelized cranberry sauce. The chef's signature risotto is always a good choice whether served with sweet corn, lobster mushrooms and coastal white shrimp or with braised veal breast, Swiss chard and butternut squash. The first-class feasting doesn't stop at dessert. Folks have been known to drive all the way from Virginia just for chef Howell's crème brûlée. Italian wines lead the list, which nonetheless goes on to offer a substantial range of global selections. The dining room boasts Italian chandeliers lighting brightly colored walls adorned with local artist Jane Filer’s exuberant paintings. Just one caveat: If you're hoping for quiet conversation, avoid the closely spaced banquettes along the wall.
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