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Natural Selection Restaurant Review: Vegetarian and vegan dining has come a long way from bowls of tofu, brown rice and broccoli. Prepare to have any preconceived notions blown away at this comfortable spot. You can order à la carte, but the best bet is the $40 four-course dinner. In a nod to retro Chinese menus, there are two options for each course; choose one from "Column A" or one from "Column B." Always-changing dishes may include fried Brussels sprouts with green olives, hazelnuts and preserved lemon aïoli; shell bean caponata with potatoes bravas, gold beets, confit leeks and basil; and ceppo pasta with mushroom ragout, kale, cauliflower, sunchoke and truffle cream. Little add-ins (amuse bouches, palate refreshers) enhance the experience. Dessert might be a chocolate and espresso pudding, or coconut and lime panna cotta. Many selections are also gluten-free. Wine pairings may be added for $25 and there’s a clever list of cocktails whipped up from a rolling bar cart. The setting is warm and service professional.