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Natural Selection Restaurant Review: In a nod to retro Chinese menus, there are two options for the four courses served nightly; choose one from "Column A" and one from "Column B." But don't expect anything remotely retro on your plate. Vegetarian and vegan dining has come a long way from bowls of tofu, brown rice and broccoli. You may order à la carte, but your best bet is the $40 four-course dinner. Always-changing dishes may include tomato and peach soup, a melon and beet salad, acorn squash with spiced coconut cream, or a zucchini and ginger cake. Each course is more than it seems, with an intricate interplay of carefully prepared ingredients and clever but subtle flavors. Little add-ins (amuse-bouches or palate refreshers) enhance the experience. Many selections are also gluten-free. Wine pairings may be added for $25 and there’s a clever list of cocktails whipped up from a rolling bar cart. The setting is intimate and service professional.