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Natural Selection Restaurant Review: You need only to eat once at Natural Selection to realize that vegetarian dining has come a long way from the days of tofu, brown rice, beans and broccoli. You may order à la carte, but your best bet is the $40 four-course dinner. In a nod to retro Chinese menus, there are two options for the four courses served nightly: choose one item from Column A and one from Column B. But don't expect anything remotely retro on your plate. Always-changing dishes may include butter-braised greens with toasted olive bread, chickpeas, red onion and manchego; a marinated kale salad with endive, beets, pear, dates, radishes and Dijon mustard; and a hazelnut and squash cake paired with blood oranges, pumpkin mousse and blackberry purée. Each course demonstrates an intricate interplay of carefully prepared ingredients and clever but subtle flavors. Little add-ins (amuse-bouches or palate refreshers) enhance the experience. Many selections are also gluten-free. Wine pairings can be added for $25 and clever cocktails are whipped up from a rolling bar cart. The setting is intimate and service is professional.