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An New World Cuisine Restaurant Review: After stints at McCrady’s in Charleston, SC, and Herons in Cary, NC, chef Steven Devereaux Greene took over from An’s founding chef, Michael Chuong, in early 2012. Greene shows a sensibility and passion for the creative Asian-style cooking that complements An’s contemporary dining room. At lunch, try the surprising bento box, a sampler of chef’s specialties, or a traditional pho made with filet mignon. At dinner, consider the sea bass with lemon purée and honshimeji, crab cakes with curried carrot purée and gingered-citrus salad, and garlic chili prawns with Vietnamese slaw and sesame-roasted walnuts. Many sushi-lovers consider An’s selection to be the best in the Triangle area. Pastry chef Francisco Almaguer’s desserts include a Gianduja crème caramel with date purée and whipped dark chocolate. The pages-long wine list presents by-the-glass options from unusual vintners, numerous fine German and Austrian whites, California and French selections as well as choices from other wine-growing regions and a number of dessert wines. Wines from North Carolina producers would fit in well on the list but, unfortunately, are not included.