* Click here for rating key
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Nico Restaurant Review: Nico’s menu leaves little doubt of its allegiance to the Mediterranean diet --- vegetables, seafood and olive oil proliferate. Owner Tom Schmidt, having used a fusion approach at Franco with success, shifted just a bit southward on the map to find inspiration for his second restaurant, which sports Moroccan, Italian, French and Spanish influences. Morocco has an edge with the chicken b’stilla, a wedge of saffron rice, apricots, figs and almonds wrapped in phyllo. Seafood risotto and bouillabaisse presents diners with generous chunks of shellfish, though the salt cod in a salad of arugula, grapefruit and walnuts, seldom seen on local menus, is an even more rewarding dish. Groups tend to go heavy into the appetizers, where an order of a cheese plate, hummus, house-made pickles and spiced almonds pairs well with most of the by-the-glass offerings on the shorter-than-expected wine list. Beignets with mascarpone, quince, almonds and salted caramel make for a satisfyingly sweet reprise of Mediterranean flavors.