| Who would have dreamed that all-vegetarian Gujarati cooking would sweep patrons off their feet with dishes so unusual---and so meatless---that they might sit spellbound, dreaming of return visits to come. That's the ticket at Nirvana, with a menu brimming with rare home-style cooking that underscores how the owners aim to bring unexpected tastes and textures to an American audience weary of tandoori chicken and rubbery samosas. The cuisine's very uniqueness makes ordering something of a challenge, as it means counting on menu description for total accuracy. Even then, you'll be in for some pleasant surprises. Take the bharva subji, for example, which is a medley of stuffed peppers and potatoes filled with a heavenly blend of ground coconut and nuts---it all exudes a sweet-tart taste. The mango lassi is spoonably thick and better than any milkshake, and the dessert selection stars what westerners might call a multi-fruited fig bar, but which is really a rich pastry called gugra and is filled with dried fruits and cooked milk. Eating here is an out-of-body-experience, a bit like finding nirvana. Note that not every dish is Gujarati: expect to find the usual array of dosas and idlis, and management has bulked out the unusual menu with a few North Indian selections. But remember: it's all vegetarian all the time. |
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