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Nishino Restaurant Review: Chef Tatsu Nishino offers Japanese cuisine utilizing Northwest products and sushi at his Madison Park restaurant located next to an eastern corner of the Arboretum. The omakase might open with a single mussel garnished with finely-chopped albacore tuna and surf clams, while squid is sautéed with asparagus and morels in saké butter. The avocado-wrapped Arboretum roll encircles hamachi and tobiko plus a fiery slice of jalapeño pepper; toro tartare is tipped in gold leaf and served with caviar in a cut-glass bowl. For anyone not smitten with sushi, there's stir-fried lemon grass-roasted chicken with mint and papaya salad, or amaebi, which are small shrimp plucked live from the display tank and presented seconds later on a bed of rice spiked with tangy vinegar. A thoughtful selection of wine and premium sakés is available.