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Nishino Restaurant Review: Chef Tatsu Nishino, who trained in Los Angeles with sushi master Nobu Matsuhisa, offers his exotic East/West fusion creations at this sophisticated Madison Park restaurant. The omakase might open with a single mussel garnished with finely chopped albacore tuna and surf clam, while squid is sautéed with asparagus and morels in saké butter. The avocado-wrapped arboretum roll encircles hamachi and tobiko plus a fiery slice of jalapeño pepper; toro tartare is tipped in gold leaf and served with caviar in a cut-glass bowl. For anyone not smitten with sushi, there's stir-fried lemon grass-roasted chicken with mint and papaya salad, or amaebi --- small shrimp plucked live from the display tank and presented seconds later on a bed of rice spiked with tangy vinegar. A selection of wine and sakés is available.