This small, sweet and reliable neighborhood restaurant is a pleasure to visit, as much for its European-style character as its elevated, affordable cuisine. Co-owner and manager Fabio Stefani may be Italian by heritage, but his restaurant presents an almost Parisian look and feel. The first tier of the interior (there is one sunny outdoor table) is a narrow slip, with an open kitchen and seven ringside seats, a tiny counter with two more spots, and four tables for two. Dates and single regulars here (the place is a non-home-cook’s haven) are framed by tall windows and red velvet curtains, their tables lit with tiny votives. Downstairs, the room opens wider to accommodate up to 22 diners. Some dishes are terrific, especially for the price, including a beautifully cooked filet mignon paired with a balanced port demi-glace, whole, roasted shallots, broccolini, lovely white beans and crispy shoestring onions---at $24 it’s a steal as the priciest item on the menu. Generous seasonal salads are also bright winners, as with the summer plate of grilled golden peaches, Point Reyes blue cheese, indulgent brioche croutons and fresh watermelon. Try Stefani’s controversial version of his northern Italian nonna’s pasta Bolognese (it has an extra ingredient). A good, short list of mostly local wines features many by the glass.
|